Questionable Biking Skills on Ometepe

Watching from the ferry, I was already impressed with the island of Ometepe as it got closer and closer. A large island made of up of two volcanoes, Concepcion and Maderas, Ometepe is in the southern part of Lake Nicaragua and just a half-day's journey from Granada. It's become a tourist destination not only for travelers, but also for Nicaraguans who want some beach time away from Managua or Leon or Granada.

Cristina and I arrived late afternoon last Thursday, and were looking forward to seeing the beautiful island and relaxing by the water. After the ferry docked, we took a tuc-tuc to our hostel, Finca Magdalena, almost on the other side of the island. That night, we ate a very typical Nicaraguan meal at the hostel and shared a liter of Tona. Cristina was climbing the Maderas volcano the next morning, so it was an early and quiet night.

La lancha, or small ferry, across.

The two volcanoes of Ometepe.

The next day, I had a leisurely breakfast at the hostel and began to make my way to Ojo de Agua about 10am. Ojo de Agua is a natural spring in the middle of the island that they've made into a swimming pool-like attraction. Our plan was to meet up there that afternoon. I began to walk over toward Ojo de Agua and quickly realized that it was a hella far way away. I though I'd better rent a scooter or bike or something or else I'd never get there.

While I was thinking about that, I noticed the best view of Concepcion in the distance. Stopping to take a picture, I heard a motorcycle slow behind me. A man stopped and asked in Spanish if I wanted a ride somewhere. I told him I was looking for a place to rent bikes or scooters, and if he knew of one. He said he did and to hop on. I reluctantly got on, knowing that if I started to feel unsafe I could just jump off the scooter. We drove for about 5 minutes before passing a place, and since his questions started to feel a little personal and probing, I yelled "Aqui!!" and he stopped. I jumped off and threw a quick "gracias" in his direction, and began to look for the owner of the bike rental shop. Honestly, he was probably just a friendly guy giving me a ride on his island, but as a woman traveling alone one can never be too sure. I could write a whole blog post about that topic alone, so that's all I'll say for now.

These pretty, friendly birds were everywhere.

The view of Concepcion, right before the guy on the bike stopped.

A few minutes later, pedaling down the road on my pink and silver bike, I was the envy of my 10-year-old self on such a beautiful mode of transportation. The breeze refreshed my whole body, and it felt good to use some muscles that have been practically dormant for the past couple months. Then I decided to change the gears on my bike and everything went wrong. I heard the awful grinding and twisting of metal, and my right pedal stuck. It wouldn't make a revolution and I was too scared to break it even more if I forced it. I got off to see what the problem was, which I realize now is completely futile because I know next to nothing about bikes.

I looked up at a friendly-faced security guard a few yards away, hoping that he could help. He could, and after a few minutes he had the chain untangled and the bike working again. I offered him my towel to clean his oil-covered hands, but he refused, saying that they were too dirty. As he went to find his own towel, I noticed the nice, grand-looking hotel that he was meant to be guarding. With sweat soaking through my dress, it was time for a rest. I parked my bike and went in to the restaurant for lunch and a cappuccino. Checking my map, I found I was only about half-way to Ojo de Agua and it was already after midday. Too far for me to bike in one day (except for this one time last year). I decided to stay at the hotel's beachfront that afternoon and told Cristina to meet me there. So we relaxed by the beach the rest of the afternoon and would hit Ojo de Agua the next morning.

Finally relaxing at the beach.

At one point, I looked over and saw this herd of cattle drinking from the lake! I forgot that it is freshwater and they can do that without dying.

We rode back to the hostel on my bike in total Nica style with Cristina pedaling and me sitting side-saddle on the bar in front of her. Some of our friends from Esperanza had arrived at our hostel that afternoon, and we spent the evening playing cards on the deck and eating a delicious dinner while the sun set behind the volcano.

I mean.

We did go--by cab--to Ojo de Agua the next day before heading back to Granada. It was hot (what else is new?), so I swam in the cold, refreshing water as long as I could, and read on the side for the rest of it. Though we had to get back that night, I would have happily spent another day on the beach with my toes in the lake, or on a porch somewhere watching the sun set.

Ojo de tourists.

Cristina sneakily took this of me lounging in the water. I clearly didn't want to go.

To the Bat Cave!

This weekend, I wanted to do some things in and around Granada. It's amazing to think that I only have a few more weeks in this beautiful country, and of course, now I don't feel like there is enough time to do everything I want to do.

Last Friday, after an exhausting week at school, I had a relaxing afternoon then decided to get street food for dinner. Street food will no doubt be one of my favorite parts of this city because it is simple, good food for cheap. Vendors set up shop on the side of the street and sell grilled chicken, platanos maderas or verdes (bananas either fried or baked and sweetened), the traditional gallo pinto (rice and beans), and coleslaw. Some vendors sell a ton of other fried foods like empanadas, fried potatoes with cheese, Nica cheese (a salty cheese that they serve with everything here. I don't like it much..) and something similar to chalupas. One order easily lasts for two meals, and I usually warm up my leftovers the next day for lunch. All this for 115 cordobas (a little more than 5 bucks).

My friends and I then did our favorite Friday night activity: ladies' night at Reilly's. Reilly's is a pub just down the street from our house, and on Fridays, girls drink for free. Rum and cokes flow from 9-12 and the whole group gets pretty tipsy sipping the strong rum for literally nothing. After Reilly's, we headed to Kelly's, another pub that has a DJ and dance floor, great outdoor patio, and plenty of nicaraguenses to mingle with. After only a few minutes on the dance floor, I'm usually soaked with sweat. Gross, right? The lack of air conditioning and hundreds of bodies in one room will do that to a person. Not to mention I'm usually dancing my heart out. The moonwalk usually comes out at least once during a Kelly's night. After plenty of dancing and sweating, I went to the patio to sit for a minute and have some good conversation.

The next morning, a couple girls in my house went to Kathy's Waffle House, a place a few blocks away from us that serves amazing breakfast. I feasted on a bacon omelette, gallo pinto, hash browns and buttery toast. I haven't had pancakes or waffles there yet, but it's on my to do list. I'm sure I'll visit it again before I leave. 

Saturday Afternoon, a group of us decided to do the Masaya Volcano night tour. It is the most active volcano in Nicaragua, and last erupted in 2008 spewing only ash and steam. While we didn't see any lava, the smoke emanating from the crater is quite impressive. 

Completely unnecessary gas masks, and the crater behind me.

The view from the top!

No pasa, Beth!!

After the sun set, we descended into the bat caves that are connected through an intricate system to the volcano. As our guide said, we didn't need to be afraid that the bats would hit us. Since they fly using sonar, they could sense where we were and avoid us while flying around the caves. We descended 180 meters, and I admit my claustrophobia started acting up a bit. After a few deep breathes and a diverting conversation, I was okay but certainly didn't want to be there longer than necessary. Once we got to the end, our guide told us to turn off our flashlights and stay silent for a few seconds. I clutched my friend, trying to not think of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom...which only made me think of it more. We were enveloped in total darkness; I'd never experienced darkness so complete and unfiltered. The whole tour was a very cool experience, and one you must do if you ever find yourself in Nicaragua.

Oh, hey Connie.

Sunday was a lazy one. It's the day of rest, no? We had brunch at Lucy's Hostel and Restaurant, another favorite of mine. Theirs is an open courtyard with delicious breakfast for only 60 cord (about $2.25) and a nice lunch for 70. A family owns the hostel and restaurant and could not be sweeter. Then we walked through the park, among the stalls filled with tshirts, jewelry, purses and clothes. I accidentally haggled for an anklet and got it for 30 cord less than she originally asked. She must have known the first price she gave me was ridiculous, so when I put it down and began to walk away, she instantly cut it by 30. The blue beaded anklet is now on my left ankle. Every time I see it, I'll remember this weekend, and the city that has crept it's way into my life.